Saturday, July 04, 2009

Siem Reap, Cambodia: Day 3

We woke up in Siem Reap on the third morning clueless as to the day's itinerary. Free and easy, slow and steady, we figured. I recall snuggling deeper under the covers of my bed that morning, delaying the moment I'd have to get up and hop into the shower. Happily, my sister was still asleep.

Alas, the guys rang soon after, forcing us to dress and go down for breakfast.

Breakfast

As usual, the breakfast spread was good.

Breakfast

We ate a lot, intending to start off the day right.

Breakfast

But we ended up back in our rooms right after breakfast, feeling absolutely stuffed, idly flicking through the cable channels before finally deciding, on Wan's suggestion, to check out Siem Reap's one and only War Museum.

War Museum in Siem Reap

Wan declared this visit to be the highlight of his trip.

Alvin @ War Museum in Siem Reap

To enter, this open air, museum-in-a-garden, we had to pay USD3 each but it was money well-spent, we thought. The items on display were collected from various parts of Cambodia and painstakingly transferred to the museum.

Alvin @ War Museum in Siem Reap

We were led on a free tour of the grounds by Alvin - my sister claims that's his name- who is a local farmer-turned-guide. He had lost his left arm stepping on a landmine when he was a young boy working on his father's farm. Bits of the metal from the landmine remained embedded in his chest and when the weather gets cold, his chest will hurt. Alvin cannot afford the surgery needed to remove the pieces of metal in his chest.

War Museum in Siem Reap

Alvin's life story and family history is truly tragic (and I hope he was not bullshitting us) and we really felt for him. His whole family died from a land mine blast as they were farming their land. Later, his aunt and her family took over his father's farm and chased him out. Alvin went to live with monks in a monastery where he learned basic English.

War Museum in Siem Reap

As Alvin explained, life's difficult for the average Cambodian, living with the legacy of war and the Khmer Rouge regime.

War Museum in Siem Reap

Alvin showed us the cornucopia of weapons used during the war of 1975 -1979 which saw a targeted genocide of certain ethnic minorities and the intellectual class.

War Museum in Siem Reap

We examined AK47s, pistols, rockets, bombs, tanks supplied by the Russians and Americans, knives and steel blades, and an endless array of 'boy toys'.

War Museum in Siem Reap

Being firmly anti-war, I refused to touch anything, noting that many of the items like the knives and old uniforms still had obvious bloodstains.

War Museum in Siem Reap

There is a great deal of history in the place and ghosts too. Alvin claims to have seen ghosts of soldiers past lingering in the museum at night fall.

War Museum in Siem Reap

It's very sad, looking at man's capacity for destruction on display. We saw rusted bombshells and hand grenades stacked up wall-to-wall and thought about the lives that were lost.

War Museum in Siem Reap

We saw landmine casings planted in the ground and Alvin demonstrated how easy it was to accidentally step on one and be scarred for life in an instant.

War Museum in Siem Reap

And to think that just as Cambodia is struggling to rid herself of 3 million live and active landmines (a very dangerous job performed by specialist landmine removers, mostly women), countries (including ours) are designing and manufacturing more sophisticated models.

War Museum in Siem Reap

After the very informative tour, we made a donation to the museum and thanked Alvin, wishing him all the very best.

Smoothies @ Blue Pumpkin

Still a little shaken, I suggested we head to Blue Pumpkin for some comfort food. The fruit shakes and beef burgers served there are delicious.

Hamburgers @ Blue Pumpkin

And I love the ice-creams as well. For lunch that day, I had caramel and rocky road, both sweet and rich.

Ice-creams @ Blue Pumpkin

And Aidil polished off a slice of moist pineapple cake.

Cakes @ Blue Pumpkin

We headed back to the hotel to shower and get ready for the free concert held every Saturday by Dr. Beat Richner in aid of the Kantha Bopha Children's Hospital in Siem Reap.

Dr Beat Richner @ Beatocello concert

Titled "Beatocello", the concert has been a permanent fixture at the auditorium next to the children's hospital for the last 4 years, I think.

In between playing and performing, Dr Beat Richner explained the dire healthcare situation in Cambodia: the lack of medical funding, facilities and basic health education and awareness. Children were dying of common diseases like flu / cold, dengue, malnutrition, simply because the average Cambodian parent could not afford basic medical treatment for their child.

He also showed us a video documentary of the efforts made by him and his team to improve conditions. Watching it, we decided to donate some money and blood to Kantha Bopha's blood bank the next day.

Dr Beat Richner @ Beatocello concert

After the concert, we headed to the Pub Street for dinner. The area was colourful and noisy, with plenty of small, beautifully decorated cafes offering good and cheap food.

At Le Tigre de la Papier

We settled down at Le Tigre de la Papier for some fruit shakes and local dishes.

Shakes @ Le Tigre de la Papier

My sis and I shared a fresh shrimp salad with plenty of crunchy greens and dressed with a homemade sweet/spicy sauce.

Dinner at Le Tigre de la Papier

Wan, Shahira and I had rice with stir-fried beef, fish or squid.

Dinner at Le Tigre de la Papier

Our meals were quite tasty. I quite like Cambodian cooking.

Dinner at Le Tigre de la Papier

Aidil was more adventurous. He wanted to try the local BBQ and so ordered a platter of fresh meat with vegetables for grilling, which turned out to be pretty satisfying.

Dinner at Le Tigre de la Papier

And so at the close of our third day in Siem Reap, we had good food, great company and a deeper insight into the country's past and present, having been told inspiring, heart-wrenching, real life stories of tragedy, triumph and survival.